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In my kitchen will be drawer fronts and cupboard doors of maple, aspen, and ash. Similar but different problem. 5. Danish Oil on maple table This customer used Danish Oil on this maple table slab to bring out wood grains while slightly darkening the wood to achieve a rustic, yet modern look. It adds color, shine and a hard layer of protection. I used Danish oil to touch up a kitchen cabinet that had lots of scratches and wear. Many people confuse the different kinds of oil to be the same. Watco Danish Oil is intended as a complete finish. Boiled linseed oil contains drying agents that let it cure overnight, but tung oil can take several days. Compare. WATCO® Danish Oil penetrates deep into wood pores to protect from within and to enhance the natural look and feel of the wood. It blended the color well and looked great going on but is still sticky 24 hours later. Similar, though I believe gunstock oil would be closer to that of Tru-oil. Danish oil is a penetrating wood finish that is related to both Tung oil and polymerized linseed oil. Beware: Some finishes with "tung oil" in their name contain little or no real tung oil as an ingredient. Watco Danish oil from a local hardware store works fine, it’s a thinner oil so we usually put on at least one more coat to help build the finish on the wood. While oil finishes do a wonderful job at highlighting the figure in curly maple, they also add a gentle amber color. These oils tend to bring out the curly or tiger looks of the maple. Danish oil simply wipes on, and its varnish component forms a film on the wood surface for better protection. but if its being applied to thickly, or if its applied to a particulalry oily piece of wood (cocobolo/bocote levels of oilyness) or if there was alreayd some kind of waxyfinish on the wood i would not be surprised if it had issues curing properly. Linseed oil, Boiled Linseed Oil, Tru-Oil (which is nothing more than boiled linseed oil), Minwax's "Tung Oil Finish" and the various Watco Danish Oil finishes are all essentially the same. If you look carefully, the product is often actually labeled as “Danish Oil Finish” , which of course implies that it isn’t simply a pure oil. Even applying dyes is the same. Danish oil, which is yet another natural finish, is actually a type of Tung oil. If the OP doesn’t want blotching, he needs to treat the wood before. First I prepared the wood in my normal manner by sanding with coarse, medium and then fine paper. Top Rated Watco 1 pt. Linseed Oil vs Danish Oil vs Tung Oil. The first few coats just rub straight on as the wood soaks it up, then I use 400 grit sandpaper to rub it in, move on to 600 and finally 800. Follow the oil with a coat or two of shellac. The can reads, both: “Watco Danish Oil Finish is a unique blend of penetrating oil & varnish that stains, seals & protects in one easy step.” and The information in this blog post applies to all oil finishes. The oil is absorbed too deep. Watco Danish Oil and tung oil are two types of wood-finishing oil with distinctly different properties. How To Make A Picture On A Piece Of Wood. Mineral oils won't do that. Conditioner, even a coat of Shellac, could make Maple wood yellow/Amber. For a more durable finish, top-coat over the shellac with a clear lacquer or polyurethane. Danish oil can be used under other finishes and it can also act as its own finish. Should I rewipe it with more Danish, or Mineral Spirits, or something else, and wait for it to dry or try to remove it, and if so, with what? I'm using a spalted maple top on basswood, and I have a maple neck with a rosewood fingerboard. Mineral oil will work fine but will leave the wood looking dull. In fact, the ambiguity with danish oil is even more severe. It's designed to be an in-the-wood finish that leaves the look and feel of the grain rather than a smooth finish like you get with a varnish, shellac or lacquer. A polymerizing oil soaks into the wood and forms a relatively hard finish. I think I was a bit over zealous and didn't give it enough time between coats, and I hated how yellow it was turning out. As a rule i would say danish oil does not stay tacky. I also always blow the eyes of the burls out with some compressed air as I'm wiping the applied finish. It's what is called an oil/varnish mixture. You'll have much better results with maple, cherry, or birch, which have tighter grains. So I need to try to remove the finish between frets so I can apply TRU OIL on the fretboard as well. The cherry and birch sometimes have darker blotches but no other problems. Danish oil is great for finishing necks, I tend to put on about 5-6 coats. How To Use Danish Oil On Maple eBay. You can finish by applying several coats of any finish, but oil finishes won’t produce enough shine or depth to maximize the contrast you’re trying to achieve. – Mikeber Nov 21 '17 at 22:41. Danish oil should contain a high percentage of natural oil that is classified as a drying oil. The only delamination problems I have had with ply were a couple of times with water-based latex paints for … Here’s another “wiping” option that you might not even realize: ordinary oil-based polyurethane. The plan is to use Watco Danish Oil Finish on the woods. Dark Walnut 350 VOC Danish Oil (4-Pack) Model# 265501 $ 35 92 /case $ 35 92 /case Free delivery with $45 order. Danish Oil. Another commonly used finishing technique on maple is to apply tung oil or linseed oil after the final sanding. Watco Danish oil is a brand of wood finish product also referred to as an oil/varnish blend, because it contains both penetrating oil and varnish. Many projects can be completed in less than an hour - simply brush or wipe on and wipe off. As discussed above, linseed oil comes in different varieties. Danish Oil Application … Danish oil is typically wiped on, allowed to soak in to the wood for a while and then excess remaining on the surface is wiped off. The term “Danish Oil” is basically a catch all term for any oil-based wood finish. More Options Available. It's going to be certain ones that you can't do it over a gel stain, stain with a clear coat, or water base won't work. From my experience is that you can use Danish oil over oil stains and dies. You can buy Danish oil without a tint added to it (“Natural”) or in several wood stain colors. The build seems way to slow for a product that contains that much resin, but I'm not a chemist. Danish Oil will darken the wood slightly and can be combined with oil-based pigments to create wood stains. Danish Oil Finish is commonly used by woodworking professionals for application to bare wood or overtop an already-stained piece. Although it is also known as Chinese wood oil or linseed oil, it is definitely different from the latter. After about 15 coats of tinted oil and more gentle block sanding the flats of the headstock with slurry of oil for glassy smooth surface. Similarly to mineral oil, the term danish oil can apply to many different substances. Raw, polymerized, and boiled linseed oil are all derived from the flaxseed plant, but have been processed differently and to varying degrees. From what I read, danish oil is just BLO with some thinner and varnish mixed in in varying amounts. Incidentally, if you want to save some money you can buy any brand of linseed oil instead of the more expensive Danish oil. How To Use Danish Oil On Maple + How To Use Danish Oil On Maple 09 Dec 2020 Check out our mexican shadowbox selection for the very best in unique or custom, handmade pieces from our shops. Formby Tung Oil finish maybe, Watco Danish Oil, no way. Tung oil, however, darkens less with time. Tried and true oil, is a good choice for a project you want food safe. I have used Watco Danish Oil on cherry, oak, maple and birch plywood with absolutely no delamination. Danish Oil. I started finishing the body with a clear Danish Oil (Watco) to get some color, planning to coat it with wax or poly after. This is the way I believe antique curly maple with highly defined curls was finished – a first coat of boiled linseed oil, followed probably by several coats of shellac. Both penetrate the entire fretboard and protect very well. I first tried cherry and maple. Watco 1 pt. Richard is spot on a pic would really help.I have had good results with maple burl using multiple coats of polymerized Tung oil and then using the Beall buffing system after the finish has cured. As a wood finish, linseed oil often gets compared to danish oil and tung oil. I decided to run some tests using the Watco natural color on various hardwoods. An oil such as tung oil or boiled linseed oil will also reveal and add punch to figure that may have been difficult to see in the raw board. Oil/varnish mixes, such as Danish oil, enhance grain while laying down a thin film. Watco Danish Oil is a brand name of Danish oil. I then applied a generous amount of Watco Danish Oil to the surface and started to wet sand with 600 grit silicon carbide wet or dry paper. It often a top choice of finishes because it can be used on just about all types of wood surfaces. – Mikeber Nov 21 '17 at 22:36. I'd use a rosewood fretboard (lemon oil only), on the neck, one coat of medium walnut Watco Danish oil for tint, then thinned Tru Oil buffed to a smooth satin finish. Watco Danish Oil vs. Polyurethane for Wood Finishing. The term “Danish Oil” used today is a general term for a type of wood finish. It creates the rich, warm glow of a traditional hand-rubbed finish. Using Tung oil on maple is like staining. Set your store to see local availability Add to Cart. Danish oil is a super common finish among woodworkers, although it isn’t clearly defined. WATCO® Danish Oil is a unique blend of penetrating oil and varnish that hardens in the wood, not on the wood. On the body I'd use red aniline dye to get a red tinge then finish off with uncut Tru Oil and buffed for a semi-gloss finish. A drying oil such as boiled linseed oil or a blend of oil and varnish (“Danish Oil”) can be made to look shinier and nicer with several coats. 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